Saturday, May 29, 2010

Kolkata Traffic

My goodness... I've died and gone to traffic hell.
Or maybe not.

Traffic in Kolkata is something that I am at a loss to adequately describe.  So many cars.  So few lane markers, and those lane markers that there are seem to be completely optional.  Pure, utter, hot, humid chaos:


Every vehicle, except the one that I am in (as a passenger, I'm not crazy enough to even try to drive here) is packed to the gills with commuters:

Folks are hanging on for dear life, and everywhere that you look there are signs that cars and buses don't always play nice with each other:
But somehow, perhaps through the graces of India's 35,000 gods, it all seems to work.

Traffic actually flows.

There is no gridlock.

People actually get where they need to go, and my guess is that they actually get to and from their homes to their work just as fast or faster than commuters in any other large city.

What's going on here?  It certainly looks chaotic, and it certainly sounds chaotic. Many large trucks have "HONK!" painted on them to encourage those in their blind spots... but it seems that Kolkata drivers need no encouragement to use their horns.  It's a constant din of beeps and honks.

The answer is the Kolkata drivers themselves.  They weave and accelerate and honk as if they were born to do so.  Watching them maneuver in mass is reminiscent of watching a stream of ants make their way through the jungle.  No regimented spacing for these drivers.  No set lanes.  No regulated speeds.  Just the inherent instinct to go forward persistently, pausing only for those who would otherwise hit you.

It works.  Lord help me, but it works.

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